Summary and another Farewell to Ireland
Reflecting on our most recent trip I’m astounded at how much we packed in to three short weeks. This journey had so many adventures that looking back, well…. I’m surprised we could do it. Bridget deserves a huge thanks for being our designated driver, humorist and helper. She’s easy to travel with and doesn’t mind being with the guys. Yes, it’s true that many pub clients appreciate good music and show that appreciation by buying the players pints of their preferred beverage. For us it’s always the regional stout. In Cork and Kerry we always order Murphy’s or Beamish, once you get out of the South it’s usually Guiness. It’s also true that these beverages are better closer to the source. Bridget taking on the roll of D.D. allowed James to enjoy the pleasure of appreciative pints with Morgan and I. The downside of that activity is I’m going to be avoiding beer and rich food until I drop the pounds I put on in three weeks. James was correct back in 2012 when I remarked one early morning when we were driving back to our rental in Fahy, after a particularly wild session at the old Bould Biddy’s in Westport, that I could get used to this. His response was “you’d be dead in a year.” Living like that is a young man’s game and I’m no longer that young man.
Bridget sat down with us on our last day and asked us to name our top ten takeaways from the trip. Starting from the beginning of our trip in County Cork, but not particularly in the correct order here’s what we recalled . The trip out to Helvic Head and playing its namesake Jig in a local pub, Mooney’s. Eating a terrific five course meal at Ballymaloe estate, in memory of James’s mother Ann. Ann had visited Ballymaloe many times and once there we understood why. Thank you Bridget and James for that delightful evening. The session we shared with Macdara O’Faolain, his wife Victoria, Conor and Masato. It was an honor to play with such young and talented musicians. Our house session with Hannah Collins at her family home. Such a talented Concertina player and pianist and her Mother served us a mid-day meal as if we were family. Our sessions at Eileen’s in Kilcrohane, her pub has been magic for us more than once and the session with Wayne and Lisa Lambe ranks as one of our most memorable. Lisa is a wonderful singer and generous human being. Wayne has been a supporter since our first meeting. A talented and generous man who deserves all the success that comes his way.
Clare started off disappointingly. We found out that County Clare, due to its proximity to The Cliffs of Moher, the Aran Islands and the wild beauty of The Burren has become a tourist hot spot. The sessions we enjoyed at The Roadside tavern in 2016 and 2018 were a thing of memory. We never saw Terry Bingham, Seamus Hynes or Paul Dooley. All people with whom we were excited to reconnect. The one night that Christy Barry was there he was surrounded by a gaggle of musician’s that, quite honestly, were less than he deserved, so we never played with him either. Seeing the man himself, the barkeep at The Roadside, retired after 29 years, Billy Archibald was a pleasure. That he remembered us was gratifying. The discovery of Eugene’s Whisky Bar next to Cooley’s House in Ennistymon was the big surprise. To find out that we were the first live music allowed in Eugene’s establishment in years surprised the hell out of us. Eugene’s expectations of decorum are apparently well known to those who live in the area, but we came in cold and somehow passed muster. Meeting Christy McNamara at Eugene’s and being invited to his session at The Cliffs of Moher Hotel next night made Clare worth the trip.
Seeing the Foley’s in Dingle, for the first time in 6 years was lovely. They’re thriving and we are so pleased that their hard work has paid off.
The trip to the Aran Islands Bridget and I took with Zeke, Amy and Fionn was memorable. For the five of us it was our first time out in the Aran’ and we were all taken by their wild beauty. Wind swept rocky islands in the North Atlantic, starkly beautiful and very isolated. We had the luxury of crossing in a high speed ferry from Doolin, the waters were treacherous and I can’t imagine how dangerous the crossing was with sails and oars.
Westport was and is good to us. So many friends and choices. We all looked at one another and realized we blew it when we scheduled a mere week. It’s simply not enough time there and we won’t make that mistake again. Our rental, Headford House was the most luxurious stay of the trip. High upon a shoulder of a hill that transitions up to the tallest point in Ireland, Croagh Patrick, aka The Reek, we had stunning views of the magnificent Clew Bay and many of its islands. Just below us was the remains of what Jackie suspects was a pre-famine village. Looking out of Headford House’s windows while playing music was a sensory feast. Connecting with one of our favorite friends, Jackie Small, was a delight. Before the trip he was high on our list of must see’s. To share not just one session but several was more than we expected. We see Jackie as a benefactor, a font of knowledge and a living treasure. To have his friendship is an honor. Julie Langan was another must see for us. She’s stayed in touch with us over the years. She’s a gifted musician, mother and partner to Graham, he a talented builder of Harps and occasionally fiddles. We can’t wait to play with Julie. The session she and Tom Doherty lead at Grainne Uaile in nearby Newport was another highlight. It always is. To have Brian Lennon sitting to my right, Mick Mulcrone on my left Maria across from me playing her bouzouki, John McHugh and his friend spinning off sets with Julie on fiddles, what a night!
We were disappointed that we had so little time with Julie. We know she’s really busy with family and projects and we hoped she’d come to our house party. Her oldest Eoghan, was having an 18th birthday and Julie had to prepare for that. She couldn’t promise she’d be able to come, which made us rather sad. The day of the party, a little before 4:00 a car comes up the drive as we’re preparing things. I told everyone that someone was very early. I look out the kitchen window and it’s Julie with her twins. Julie carved out and hour from her very busy life and spent time talking and playing tunes with us. A generous gesture from another we’re lucky to call a friend. Seeing Johnny Fadgin and Dan Delaney on our last night, visiting them in their element at a session in The Cobbler. Two great Westport characters that always have a place in our hearts.
Visiting Gary Leahy was fun and having him come to our house party was icing on the cake. His home smoked salmon was delicious. Maggie and Tom came. We’ve known her from our first trip in 2012. She’s visited all of us in the USA. She’s another one we’re lucky to call a friend. She’s been a loyal supporter since we met her. I still remember her defending our version of Raglan Road at the now regretfully gone Boul Biddy’s, gawd did we have some wild sessions there. Apparently Raglan Road was always sung acapella and we had instruments playing with ours. Maggie had heard our version and quite vociferously assured everyone listening that it was quite good. With her help we won them over.
The last session with Tom Cussen. Alan, Gerry, Johnny and Martin was a joy. It capped our trip. To share it with Tom, one of our early contacts was an honor and to meet his friends, a pleasure. Tom has been another generous benefactor, always willing to help and advise, share his knowledge and instruments and cheer us on.
Finally our friends the Neilan’s in Gort. Unfortunately Tom was ill, in hospital and we couldn’t visit him. We did see his wife Maureen and their daughter Martina. We met them back in 2014 and they’ve been friends since. We’ve always been treated as family by them. Tom and Maureen lived across from the place they built for friends and sessions. It was an old cow shed they converted into a beautiful stone two story, with a large bottom floor for sessions. That’s where we used to stay but Tom and Maureen moved into it when they couldn’t negotiate the narrow stairs of their home. Martina lives there now. We pray that Tom recovers, Maureen stays strong and we’re able to visit with them both our next time over.
It was a great trip. For my readers, I hope you enjoyed following our adventures and I look forward to reporting more the next time we return to Ireland. We can’t imagine not visiting again.
